tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12366341438260208092024-03-19T02:34:47.900-07:00Five go to MozambiqueFIVE GO TO MOZAMBIQUE - Five graphic design students and two tutors from the BDes(Hons) Graphic Design programme at Edinburgh Napier University take their skills to Mossuril in Northern Mozambique.principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.comBlogger51125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-79401730950360439072014-06-23T04:20:00.001-07:002014-06-23T04:20:42.635-07:00 . . . and finally.And so our story comes to an end - as I write this, Elliot, Ross, Sarah, Jacob and Mikaela are in Nampula Airport, about to board a plane home.<br />
We are all very proud of what has been achieved in the last month - this has been an amazing experience.<br />
We dedicate this blog to the Macuan people of Mossuril and the surrounding district, who warmly welcomed us into their community . . . and to Mozambique - what a place you turned out to be.<br />
<br />
Maybe - to be continued . . . .principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-36289170546804648922014-06-21T22:03:00.000-07:002014-06-21T22:03:34.943-07:00The Cinematic End<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span lang="EN-US">Sarah says… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">As the final days of our adventure began,
we wanted to get everything completed that we set out to do- and we have done
just that and feel a huge sense of achievement amongst ourselves. The festival
programmes have been finalised and so we began with the rest of the tasks. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Firstly, it was only right that Sunsetti
had it’s own mural- the bright orange and yellow butterfly looks great on the
lightly coloured walls of the hotel, and is hugely admired by all of the staff.
A mini butterfly has also been painted on the back of the building, where a new
main road is currently being formed. Great advertising for the festival at all
angles! Today, I finished off this little mural and had 5 very young boys watch
me. I think they were asking what I was doing, but they just giggled when I
told them so probably not! Thank goodness I wasn’t there for long- I couldn’t
tell their innocent faces to stop painting the wall with dirty paint water!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Two huge banners have also been painted to
hang in the various venues- not as easy as painting onto walls but they will
definitely be noticed from a distance. With this, we got to work a little more
on some typography as that was almost the main focus. We had help from the
local boys on one of the sheets- it was great how quickly they adapt to
communicating with us when working on something creative- the language barrier
just didn’t matter. However, we did notice that a can of green spray paint had
gone walkabout- and so on our next venture into town, we noticed Igor had
sprayed his name on EVERYTHING…including his house. Not quite what we intended!
Despite this little mishap, I absolutely love their contributions to the work
we create, as it gives it a form of character that’s really special. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">I am writing this on our last day at
Sunsetti, and so this morning was a ‘get up and go’ as we were finally getting
to paint the long awaited cinema. We were all pretty excited to have this on
our last day, because it has almost been building up for the whole trip, a big
job! Jacob, Ross and Elliott went this morning to draw out the design- a series
of multicoloured butterflies spanning half of the wall. Meanwhile, Mikaela and
I worked towards the festival stands which I will come to shortly. After lunch,
the five of us headed up the long sandy track for the last time, only hearing a
couple of ‘Akunhas!’. It didn’t take us long to add the colour to the wall, and
it was almost sad when we had finished that it was our last mural. But so happy
with how it looked, we had to take a selfie… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Finally, the festival stands have been
completed. The bamboo constructions were created a week ago, but it was only
late last night and today that we got to weave through the capulanas to
decorate them. I hope I get the chance to buy some capulanas on the way home,
they are the most beautiful materials I’ve ever seen- so vibrant and detailed.
This morning once these were finished off, Mikaela sewed the ends together and
we both went on a hunt for sticks strong enough to hold the six contructions
together. When we returned from painting the cinema, Lisa, Waes and Thomas had
built everything together and made a roof, which looks fantastic! It amazes me
how they made it in the time we were gone. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">With our work complete, we have been able
to reflect on everything else we have contributed to in our time here, and feel
very proud of ourselves and each other. We have had the opportunity to make our
mark on Mossuril along with helping Alex, Lisa and everyone else involved by
using our skills as designers- and we would also like to thank everyone again
for giving us this chance. I certainly would love to return one day- and make
sure the butterflies are still intact!</span></div>
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<!--EndFragment-->principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-40665280361570885692014-06-21T22:00:00.001-07:002014-06-21T22:00:30.070-07:00Moz Moments ....<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-46242680033477136222014-06-21T21:56:00.002-07:002014-06-21T21:56:25.180-07:00Head Banging to Coral Lodge
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<span lang="EN-US">Departing the
wedding and after we parted the sea of onlookers we made the bumpy journey
onwards to Coral Lodge with Jacob and Waes shortly behind us on the motorbike,
arriving at the Carrusca Beach) We had made good time and made it with 10
minutes to spare from our original rendezvous time, however like many things
here in Mozambique the couple picking us up where late but we only discovered
this once Lisa got a phone signal and picked up the text messages. <br />
After waiting an additional hour we got picked up with us all plowing into a
jeep, (as the road upto coral lodge was to awkward for our smaller jeep) with
myself (Elliott) and Jacob volunteering to sit in the boot with Momade and Waes
which was an interesting experience considering we shared to boot with leaking
patrol canisters. But the journey for us was very much enjoyed bouncing around
with an open boot laughing and joking at Waes’s expense falling all over the
shop and banging his head.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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After 20 minutes of heading banging and hanging on for dear life we arrived at
a lite wooden walk way with no other lights in sight we followed the manager at
which point all you could see was the stars above us which where so clear and
vibrant in colour, twinkling in the night sky. And out of know where a sea of lights
where visible, being the main complex of the lodge with a few short steps
taking us from Mozambique out back, to 5 star luxury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">We where very
generously looked after by the husband and wife managers, with complimentary
drinks and freshly toasted cashew nuts, and sweet potatoe chips before being
offered a tour of the estate which we all jumped at the chance even though dark
and we couldn’t see either the lagoon or beach was very surreal even though
critiqued for its price but wandering around you felt you where somewhere very
special, with rooms over looking both the lagoon and beach. It felt so wrong as
comparing the luxury of the lodge to the people of Mossuril it seemed to be
polarized worlds apart but live side by side so closely yet have no connect<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">We departed the
luxury of the Coral lodge and made our way back to the familiar surrounding of
Sunset with me and Jacob electing even though there was room in the main part
of the car, to sit in the boot again with Waes and Momade and have another bumpy
but very entertaining journey back to the beach Carrusca to collect the car and
go forward on our travels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-80480114522245919172014-06-21T21:55:00.002-07:002014-06-21T21:56:46.587-07:00Talcal's Wedding<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span lang="EN-US">As we arrived at the wedding we were
already an hour late. Macua weddings do not have a traditional ceremony like
the ones we are used to however, so we had not missed much. Not long after
stepping out of the car we were surrounded by curious children. Some looked
like they were wearing their finest clothes, whilst other little kids had the
same dirty and torn clothes they wear from day to day. It soon became clear
that we were the main entertainment at the wedding, for children and adults
alike.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">We've had torrential rain at night but not
a drop in the daytime. Dark clouds had been threatening us for a while as we
sat there waiting, and as the first drops started to fall we were ushered
inside a mud hut. We've acclimatised to the weather here and thus when the rain
hit and hid the sun behind clouds we had to pull out our jumpers, although the
temperature was still above 25 degrees.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The family hosting the wedding is very poor
and most wedding guests would usually sit on mats on the ground, but we were
seated at a table. At request we had with us our own plates, cups and cutlery.
Lisa had warned us about the huge portions served at weddings, so I was
relieved when the portion was the size of Arthur's Seat rather than Mount
Everest. We were served Matapa (a traditional Macua dish) with beans, rice and
green tomatoes on the side. After plowing through most of the mountain of food
we went outside to watch a dance group perform. The dancers all wore the same
capulanas as they danced to the beat of the drums. For a short time Talcal and
his new wife joined the audience, and the dancers sang a song especially for
them. It seems we were important enough to have a song too, since they sang
about Akunhas at one point. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The dancing can continue for hours, and
after a good while of watching the performance (and being watched by hundreds
of beautiful eyes) we headed back to the car, followed by a big entourage of
wedding guests who found our presence more entertaining than the dancing. As we
crammed into the jeep and drove off they stared at us in wonder and waved. Is
this not the kind of farewells that royals get?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">I feel very lucky to have had the chance to
experience a Macua wedding. It gave us a chance to learn more about their
culture and to interact with the local people. The children take very good care
of each other, and it's not uncommon to see an eight-year-old girl or boy carry
their baby brother or sister wrapped around them with capulanas. They are
openly affectionate and it's very heart warming. There is a lot that we can
learn from the Macua people.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-9718316501456011972014-06-21T13:36:00.002-07:002014-06-21T13:38:05.774-07:00Journey To The Wedding: Biking Waes-ly<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span lang="EN-US">As the car was packed to the brim of (rather
late) wedding guests, Waes and myself were to take the bike. We had been along
the road before, and thought I knew what I was in for with regards to our small
journey; a right out of Sunseti and up out of Mossuril, along the orange strip
of bumps, jumps and onto the ‘main road’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On a bike, I thought, as Waes revved feverishly, it could be no
different to that of being in a car. Then we set off, taking a sharp left. <br />
<br />
I had never ventured left, over the small sand hill that the Chapa tilts over
nightly. We sped out of the car park confidently, leapt up over this sandy hill
and landed into the deep sand, bogged down. Stopping dead, we slowly started to
lean to the left as the engine, sensing trouble, stalled. We both found this
hilarious, and within a second had sped on, the road in front of us drastically
reducing in width; scattered chaotically with chickens, people, sand banks and
buckets. Yet, before my eyes could span the approaching area, Waes darted the
bike left again and our road became a narrow path. The path soon turned into a slither
of sand, with trees and bushes alike slapping my legs and arms as we whizzed,
slipped and drifted around this African maze. <br />
<br />
Fleeting scenes to the left and right had me transfixed with the momentary
lives that I was witnessing as we sped past. A family sitting talking, a woman
picking up her child, a man taking a bag of some food to his neighbor, I could
watch forever at such a vibrantly cultural slideshow. I turned my attention forward.
Waes was gone. Glancing down I could see he had pressed his face nearly to the
handlebars, peering forward. I looked up. An overhanging rooftop was looming at
me at an incredible speed, our path making an obvious detour through a small
cluster of mudhuts. I dived my head downwards and heard, more than felt, the
roof fly over. We both found this hilarious. <br />
<br />
We ducked and glided our speedy way through the back road with a casual
carelessness that made the whole thing enjoyable, rather than terrifying. Soon
we reached a large bright orange road, familiar territory. I guessed we were to
run into the others here, yet there was no sign; just people getting on with
walking endless kilometers to school, work and everything else really. Speeding
on, glancing only briefly back (the bike swerved comically every time we did
so), we passed even more scenes of everyday life. Weise pointed excitedly as we
passed a huge felled tree being made beautifully into a boat, the bike swerved
manically as we got a good look but refused to reduce our speed to do so. <br />
<br />
Every person we passed had the biggest smile, waving and shouting at us like we
were a parade. It’s truly heartwarming, as there’s no malice to be found in
their enthusiasm to shout and wave at you as you whizz past. Before long the
calls of “Akunha!” were so frequent, both Waes and me began to shout it aloud,
finding the whole thing utterly hilarious. It gladly muffled the ‘oofs!’ and
‘aahs!’ as we hit holes in the road, yet Waes had a keen eye for dodging them. If
we were back in Europe, I would feel incredibly unsafe. Yet, as we sped happily
along, I felt nothing but freedom and enjoyment. Soon enough we got to the
small junction that led up to the wedding, and we sat on the bike discussing
Sunseti whilst watching a small group of kids play football. The small group
then became a big group, a large group and before long I was looking around at
the apparently empty surroundings wondering where all these people had been? The
car came round the distant corner, and we headed up towards the wedding,
slipping slightly and finding the whole thing.. hilarious. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDuf03YM0aVzqMJNgzm55dMff4Ltgj5SlUchin_2fRsQ8QmtwEZVu-Rbfs5JQT3UQMIgDyzDhHxwNe6BEO0aWWaWMhruJusyq_7tYkNibYFFwkr7206xQ43E4JPwT4sNo7thQG8pF_Nca0/s1600/IMG_1803.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDuf03YM0aVzqMJNgzm55dMff4Ltgj5SlUchin_2fRsQ8QmtwEZVu-Rbfs5JQT3UQMIgDyzDhHxwNe6BEO0aWWaWMhruJusyq_7tYkNibYFFwkr7206xQ43E4JPwT4sNo7thQG8pF_Nca0/s1600/IMG_1803.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><o:p></o:p></span></div>
principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-69314779795100710662014-06-21T10:04:00.000-07:002014-06-21T10:22:07.227-07:00Ross says...<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Mora has learned now
that our room door is open at night. So now she quietly opens the
door, has a look about and then leaves. I witnessed her do that the
entire night. She even stared at me blankly for a minute or so and
then descended back into the darkness. Sleeping at night always has
it's little moments. We have Bush babies screaming and running across
the roof, tropical rain every so often and just Mora, watching us
sleep. It certainly beats drunk students at 3am, staggering down
Morningside Road. I feel accustomed to these little moments at night
and will feel weird being back home. Even just the sound of cars
driving by, will blow my mind.</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
To start our Friday
morning, me and Lisa took a trip to the hospital (don't worry mum and
dad, nothing serious). The queue just to see a nurse, was big and after waiting about
half an hour, Lisa decided to go hunting for a free doctor. Once we
found one, we were taken to his office, where he had a look at my
ear and prescribed me some anti biotics. It got me thinking how I sat
in a very similar office in Scotland and was told about all the
horrible, scary things that may happen to me, when I am in Africa.
But so far, I have felt safer here than anywhere else. Everyone here
is so nice and cheerful (Thats a rarity in Edinburgh). Some people
here have nothing, yet they will still say good morning and give you
a big smile, as they go on their way. In Edinburgh, just making eye
contact with someone, makes you jump to conclusions or feel offended
(or think they fancy you). I always feel that my perception of Africa
was so naïve and misled. I get the feeling that even a lot of
doctors back home, over dramatised Africa, to the point it scares
anyone to even visit the place. A night out in Glasgow is more
dangerous than going to Mozambique, yet people are more willing to do
that. The initial reaction people gave me, when I told them about
Mozambique was, 'Ooh I couldnt do that, it sounds too dangerous'...
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Coming here has
definitely made me want to travel more and actually see the world,
especially Africa. It's such a cliché to say that 'travel broadens
the mind' but it's so true. It just makes you realise how blissfully
ignorant your life can be.</div>
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
So after I pondered
this realisation, we picked up my pills from the pharmacy (which only
came to 5 meticais, which is pennys) and headed back to Sunsetti. </div>
principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-64549814600858543892014-06-21T05:13:00.001-07:002014-06-21T05:43:05.226-07:00For our University - with thanks . .<br />
<br />
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--</style><span lang="EN-US">I left Mozambique two weeks ago today,
leaving behind five students to finish the work we started about a year ago
with some casual email conversations and tentative plans.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">As the circle closes, and the students
prepare to leave, after a month of hard work, these are the things that keep
coming into my mind –</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Really good things can happen – you just
have to make them happen, and people will help you to do that, even if it feels
like a long shot at the time.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">All seven of us who took part in this have
something we didn’t have before.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Two charity initiatives have a positive and
far reaching identity and presence.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The communities of Mossuril and Ilha have
something they didn’t have before – we have left our mark on that landscape in
a very good way – the graphics on the walls and the sail will fade in the sun,
but that will take a long time to happen, unlike the delete button on our
computer.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Through their active participation and
interest in our work – several local young people may be inspired to find out
more about design , and how it can help bring about positive change – wouldn’t
it be wonderful if one of them could join us on our course in Edinburgh . . .</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Although graphic design in our world is a
fast paced convergence of skill, media and technology – I’ve never seen it
bring quite so much joy in its most basic form.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Getting to Sunset was like going to the
restaurant at the end of the Universe, but when we got there - it felt like
going back in time, in a very good way.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Life isn’t easy for the people there, but I
continue to miss the early morning light <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and the peace.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Our students will add their own comments on
their time in Mozambique, it’s not over yet – this sums it up for me -</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Momade, Mariamo, James, Paola, Waes,
Germano, Paulinio, Sansao, the Shine ladies, the local teenagers who came to
help, the workers at Sunset, the crowing cockerel, Lisa, Alex, Mees, Miriam, Tarkal
the dancer, the local children, especially Thomas the Tank, the drummers, the
dancers, the singers, the dhow crew, Shoppy, Frankie & Fenna, Jacob, Sarah,
Ross, Mikaela, Elliot, Iain, me and Mora the dog . . . .</span></div>
principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-37368500015261191022014-06-18T07:52:00.000-07:002014-06-18T07:52:08.159-07:00Moz Moments....<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-36243861192032195082014-06-18T07:48:00.000-07:002014-06-18T10:59:23.291-07:00Finding Paradise at Chocas<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Mikaela says...</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US">The day for our long awaited trip to Chocas
Mar had finally arrived. In the morning we squeezed in a bit of creative work
too. Sarah and I took three of the SHINE women to the new SHINE mural and
painted their hands with white paint. Ross was there too, to document it all.
Part of the SHINE brand contains a pattern of hands, and we hope that by
letting the women create this pattern using their handprints, they can feel more
connected to the creative process and their brand.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Yesterday's SHINE typography painting will
stay a memorable event. As the others focused on the LIFE building, I started
sketching out the SHINE typography with pencil and ruler. I wasn't alone for
long. There were a few boys playing football nearby when I heard one of them
say to the others that a women is painting something. I must say that being
called "mulher" (woman) rather than "akunha" (foreigner/not
one of us) was rather flattering. Several young boys came over and watched me
work. As I started filling in the outlines with black paint they were quick to
point out that I had missed a letter. Soon their younger siblings (one wearing
an adorable green dress that she won in the lottery on Children's Day) joined
them and we exchanged a lot of waves and "Ta-ta's!" (what the
youngest children say as a greeting) The older boys and I made occasional
attempts at communication, and I found out some of their ages and names. They
very much liked the bright colours of the mural.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">At 11 AM sharp we set off in the jeep on a
bumpy ride; with Momade (the manager at Sunsetti) in front of the wheel, three
of us in the back and Sarah sitting in Ross' lap in the front passenger seat.
We're used to this tight squeeze by now, and there's no time to worry about the
heat in the car either, since we were immediately distracted by our
surroundings. We passed students in the midst of their long trek to school and
lots of staring locals who were going about their daily business. It must be
quite a sight: five akunhas packed into a small jeep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Lisa and the staff had not exaggerated the
beauty of Chocas. White sand beaches stretch as far as the eye can see and the
sea is a turquoise blue. A few guys were selling beautiful seashells and shell
necklaces by the beach, and although we were tempted, a new law says you cannot
take any shells out of Mozambique. I have always enjoyed finding my own shells
to take home as souvenirs, but the ones I collected today will find their now
home at Sunsetti rather than my wooden Ikea shelves at home.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The day included strolls along the beach, swimming,
sun bathing and sun castle building. We had a lovely lunch at the Carusca
restaurant located just up from the beach. The only thing that interrupted our
paradise were the flies buzzing all around us. The beach, however, always held
up a nice breeze and kept the flies and any other insects at bay.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The ride home was again bumpy, and despite
the dark, Momade skillfully dodged pedestrians and barely visible motorcycles
and cyclists. After dinner we sketched the outline of yet another LIFE
butterfly, this time on one of the sidewalls of Sunsetti.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tomorrow our Sunset Butterfly will receive a
coat of paint and wings going from red to yellow. There are still lots of
things to do and time keeps slipping out of our hands, but we'll get there!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-70637568443826735772014-06-16T09:25:00.001-07:002014-06-16T09:26:04.101-07:00Moz Moments...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-58249716329640927642014-06-16T09:17:00.001-07:002014-06-16T09:17:32.410-07:00Girls with attitude
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Sarah says...</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The past couple of days have flown by, and
it’s now only one week we have left here in Mossuril. We have been working on
completing the murals on the nursery and SHINE building, along with some
typography to accompany the butterfly on the LIFE building. It’s quite a
difficult job, especially as the heat reflects off of the white walls directly
on to us, but as always, we worked for an audience of amazed and beautiful
eyes. It makes everything feel incredibly worthwhile. We have incorporated
finishing our film festival programmes too- we consider this to be a break in
the shade! Meanwhile, Elliott worked on a lino cut of the LIFE logo to make a
small stencil to be placed around the town. This is mostly what has been
happening since the last post. The days go by so quickly, but now I think I’m
used to it being pitch black by 5:30pm. It’ll be strange to return back to the
UK and have daylight for a further five hours. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We have had another beach trip too; this
time it was more of a shower trip. The best feeling in the world. I can still
smell the shampoo even after two days- I don’t know if that’s a good thing or
not… As we come into our last week here, I’ve started to think about the things
I’ll miss the most- the beach right on our doorstep for a start, but also the
friendliness of absolutely everybody.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">This leads me on to our walk today. We like
to go for a walk each day with our cameras, capturing everything we see and
want to remember. Today was a personal highlight for me. As we walked along the
sandy track into town, a large group of women and young girls were gathered by
dozens of water canisters, working away. Well, their work soon stopped as they
spied our cameras. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Incredible posers I tell you! It’s a battle
between them to fit into the picture- they all want to be right in the centre.
My favourite part is when we show them the photos on the screen. I’ve never
heard such loud squeals of happiness as they spotted themselves- it’s so
heartwarming. Elliott made the point that it is probably the only time the
women will have pictures of their babies and children. Even if they don’t have
the physical photo, they will know that it’s out there somewhere. The smiles
are absolutely adorable. It was also interesting to see this reaction from
girls today. I’ve noticed before that the girls have been a lot more reserved
than the boys, who usually strike the poses, but today was the complete
opposite. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We also met someone else for the first time
as we returned to the hotel. Someone I’d rather not have seen. A spider. A
spider the size of my hand. Now the bugs don’t seem so bad. We tried to
photograph it, but were obviously all too scared to get close enough… It was
probably harmless, but also best we kept out distance! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-43451865289148833572014-06-14T11:17:00.000-07:002014-06-14T11:17:11.646-07:00Five Go, Only Four Return<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />I'm talking about cameras, of course!<br /><br />Bobbing around like a buoy whilst the sun sets, skimming greens and yellows across the waves, I had thought that a photo of such a moment is a must for this trip. Capturing the sun as it glares into the African sky, from the view of the shores of our (rather exclusive) sand bar was one my to do list for sometime.<br /><br />Yet, when the time came and I grabbed my camera, throwing it over my shoulder, leading the others down to our sacred sand bar, we were met with a surprise. The sand bar was no longer a bar, more of a submerged sand submarine. Undeterred, we waded in and onwards to it, putting our bags, clothes and camera in a nearby tree that poked out from the blue waters.<br /><br />It was here that I decided that nothing could possibly say "an evening swimming in the Indian Ocean after a days work in Mozambique" than a selfie of my own face, just above the water. Rather predictably the camera dunked in, swallowing salty water as I struggled to find my right side.<br /><br />So, this post is dedicated to the 5th camera of the group, the paint covered Canon contraption that died taking a rather dodgy selfie. There's face palming to be done over this, and also, one feels, an interesting way to go for a camera.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN5iVQRShhNMO7U46SST5PZbkAgZGvZu-X7WIyUzp7QJ1CB8i-e11SQStbdQPbc_AThtdtFboawpm3gMPZeSVoHZrC4KnZ45GbP6thveIlstCuZ4AEu0Z8_m0t8VqpZHVLoYM2LaXxnAOg/s1600/d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN5iVQRShhNMO7U46SST5PZbkAgZGvZu-X7WIyUzp7QJ1CB8i-e11SQStbdQPbc_AThtdtFboawpm3gMPZeSVoHZrC4KnZ45GbP6thveIlstCuZ4AEu0Z8_m0t8VqpZHVLoYM2LaXxnAOg/s1600/d.jpg" height="400" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rather fetching (if I may say so) last photo<br />of my camera. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><br /><br />principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-69610187375613489452014-06-14T10:07:00.000-07:002014-06-14T10:07:06.086-07:00Moz Moments... <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwspYjdrSWfYDfFg2xbeEI5D8y1YmQ-IVl93Qre89kYslMdKeJBUwn9wEgH4AOCMjU0QfkjMUhQbDD3_eJq4Z63mLWg6zEPi5Ukpeev_pVwf0OU_vNISZGcIT_iYr3iXsyHmPQHn667zYQ/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwspYjdrSWfYDfFg2xbeEI5D8y1YmQ-IVl93Qre89kYslMdKeJBUwn9wEgH4AOCMjU0QfkjMUhQbDD3_eJq4Z63mLWg6zEPi5Ukpeev_pVwf0OU_vNISZGcIT_iYr3iXsyHmPQHn667zYQ/s1600/1.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxJ3eeaq6XFMkhY4CYZquOGeZcaBKVTLfdIoIKbFxXn-9S6LGHUw2J2WPLL9c8yXG8JaePK8mtRiCYV2nOdycvbfaIpoUPiujfOK6HmdHfSyH_JQaxtNHBuzZxgSnOru21tpyWDF69eEjZ/s1600/2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxJ3eeaq6XFMkhY4CYZquOGeZcaBKVTLfdIoIKbFxXn-9S6LGHUw2J2WPLL9c8yXG8JaePK8mtRiCYV2nOdycvbfaIpoUPiujfOK6HmdHfSyH_JQaxtNHBuzZxgSnOru21tpyWDF69eEjZ/s1600/2.png" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span id="goog_1670328395"></span><span id="goog_1670328396"></span><br />principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-32212956395755294312014-06-14T09:56:00.000-07:002014-06-14T09:56:25.073-07:00Akunhas Paint Again
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<span lang="EN-US">The past two days we've spent painting more
murals, this time for the SHINE soap company and the SHINE nursery school
(Escolinha SHINE). There's still more butterflies to paint too, one on the old
cinema and one on the outside wall of Sunsetti. Sarah, Jacob and Ross took on
the mural for the school whilst Elliot and I focused on the SHINE Soap mural.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Both days we painted under the mercy of a
burning hot midday sun. Had we been painting in Scottish temperatures, we would
have probably completed the murals today, but because we are in Africa, another
day will be needed to finish both the murals. With sweat dripping off all our
foreheads, we worked on whilst a small audience of locals watched. Every now
and then we escaped inside the building for some precious shade and a drink of
water. Lisa asked Waes to bring over cold drinks, which did miracles after many
hours in the merciless sun. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After both painting shifts we had just
enough time for a refreshing dip in the sea. The tide is now so high in the
evenings that there is no beach to speak off, so we waded through the mangrove
trees into the water, hanging our things on the branches. Tomorrow, however,
we'll see quite a different beach. It's our day off and the plan is to get a
lift on the back of a truck to Chocas Marr, where paradise beaches are said to
be. We'll need to get used to sharing a beach with other travellers and
tourists. It's quite a luxury having a whole beach (and when the beach is
underwater, a whole sea) to ourselves. It's always interesting if the truck
driver will actually turn up, but we hope for the best.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">This morning we also had a chance to visit
the local market. It was quite an experience. Fancy a pair of flip-flops, some
vegetables or a new plastic plate? The market has got everything imaginable
that comes in handy when you are out in the bush, except for maybe new
paintbrushes (which we could really use by now). It's hard to get used to
everyone staring at the only white Akunhas at the market. This is probably the
closest we will get to knowing what it feels like to be famous.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />
<!--EndFragment-->principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-89921715924326281532014-06-11T09:35:00.000-07:002014-06-11T09:35:20.638-07:00Moz Moments...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-14187442201662645262014-06-11T09:29:00.000-07:002014-06-11T09:43:11.806-07:00Maps and Mangroves <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Mikaela says...</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Since we went to bed at a record early 9.30
PM, I was ready to get a new day started at 7AM the next day. Only a few of the
Sunsetti staff were up and starting their shifts in the courtyard. Once I
opened the main doors to wish them a bom dia, Mora the dog was to first to
greet me. She accompanied me on a little photo trip around the hotel.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /><span lang="EN-US">An hour passed and the rest of our five
travellers began to turn up one by one. We spent the morning showing Igor and
Wilson how to draw maps. They've now drawn many versions of Mossuril that will
help us to illustrate maps for the LIFE festival. The shyness that at first was
present in both parties is gone and we are now best of friends with the staff too!
I helped SanSao put up new Facebook pictures of him playing with Mora this
morning and send some messages to his few Facebook friends. We went on to have
a very interesting discussion about Mozambique, and SanSao, who is 25, was able
to educate me quite a bit about his home country.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /><span lang="EN-US">Before lunch Sarah, Ross, Elliott and I
went on a walk around Mossuril. As always we met many curious adults and
children, some of whom asked to have their photo taken. We bought a few
supplies from Shoppe and then headed back so Sunsetti, taking a different
route. Along the way I was trying to sketch the paths and main buildings to
help us further with the maps.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /><span lang="EN-US">After a nice lunch of fresh produce that
Lisa had picked up from Manapo we headed down to the beach. Imagine our
surprise when at 2PM the water had reached the mangroves and there was only a
small strip of beach surrounded by water. We waited for a bit and then braved
the shallow water that didn't come higher than our knees. It was definitely
worth it, since now we had a small strip of beach all to ourselves. Two shy
small local boys that curiously followed what we were up to later joined us.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
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<!--EndFragment-->principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-55960513945329160882014-06-10T00:36:00.001-07:002014-06-10T00:36:01.835-07:00Journey Back to Sunsetti<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Mikaela says...</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Our short stay at Ilha
has come to an end and it's time to journey back to Mossuril. It
feels like we're going home, even though we've only been at Sunsetti,
Mossuril for two weeks. With hiking bags packed and the hotel bill
paid we returned to Anchora D'Ouro one last time for breakfast. We
also made another quick stop at the small food shop for important
supplies (coffee, water and Cadbury's chocolate). On our way we
stocked up on the local currency too, since there are no ATMs in
Mossuril.</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
As we arrived at the
beach where the boat was to depart we were told the boat was leaving
at noon. This gave us just enough time to enter the grand hotel Villa
Sands for a last cold drink. The hotel was such a contrast to all the
other places we've been to that we were a little overwhelmed and felt
like peasants entering a palace. The staff was however extremely
friendly and from the terrace we could see the boats, thus making
sure we would not miss the boat. The boat ended up leaving quarter to
1 instead, but we were finally on our way home. Just as on the boat
journey to Ilha, the boat was packed with so many people that it
seemed a miracle that it could still float. As we finally started
sailing to Mossuril we were soon hit by big waves and strong winds.
On the plus side this meant we would be at our destination sooner,
but it was a bit frightening too and it got the adrenaline racing.</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
</div>
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Just over an hour later
we arrived at the familiar shores of Mossuril. It's good to be back
amongst the friendly staff at Sunsetti. Our visit to the island has
given us a broader perspective of what life is like in different
areas here, and how different the people can be. Whilst the children
in Mossuril have a friendly curiosity and are sometimes a little shy,
most of the kids we encountered on Mozambique Island were confident,
loud and persistent. In general people are better off on the Island.
During our visit there we were asked if we wanted a small or a large
beer. The strange thing was that both were the same price. Choosing
to buy the small beer is a sign of wealth.</div>
principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-19030572025129313262014-06-10T00:27:00.000-07:002014-06-10T00:27:40.906-07:00Moments in Moz 4<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-38106602317419272022014-06-09T12:38:00.001-07:002014-06-09T12:38:10.240-07:00Five go to Ilha Day 2
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<span lang="EN-US">Mikaela and Elliott say:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Well rested and with newly washed hair
(never thought that a hair wash would be worthy of a mention) we headed down to
Anchora D'Ouro for breakfast. Like the creatures of habit that we seem to be,
we sat down at the same table as last night and were served by the same
friendly waiter who speaks a little bit of English.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After breakfast we picked up paint and
brushes and headed in the approximate direction we thought the backpacker
hostel Ruby's was located. Although we had already found the hostel yesterday,
we once again got lost in a maze of small streets until we finally saw the
familiar sign. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">On the third and slightly louder knocking
attempt, a woman called Vanessa opened the door and welcomed us in. The owner,
Claudia, is letting us paint the LIFE butterfly on the wall by a staircase that
leads up to a cozy roof terrace. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It's
the first thing you see as you enter the hostel, and thus an ideal location. We
were given the grand tour of the hostel, which had a lot of character and felt
very homey. Then we set about drawing the grid for the butterfly. We spent a
bit longer on the mural this time, since it was inside and would be a very
visible part of the hostel. Instead of plastic bucket lids that we've been
working with so far, we were given two ceramic plates to mix our colours on.
This made it much easier to keep the colours bright and clean. We started
somewhere around 11AM and put the final typographical touches on the mural at
3PM. It was worth all the hard work, since everyone agreed this is the best
mural we have painted so far.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">After lots of photographs and a cold drink
we left Ruby's feeling a sense of accomplishment. We found a tiny food place
where we had a quick lunch before heading off to explore the island a little more.
As we headed towards the Fortress at the end of the tourist side of the island
we were once again followed by a group of children who wanted their photographs
taken. We did our best to shake them off but they followed us for a good twenty
minutes before realizing that we weren't going to give them anything. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We headed for our favourite evening
location, the pier. On our walk we came across the musician who played at
Sunsetti and exchanged smiles and greetings. At the pier we were joined by a
little boy (maybe 8 or 9 years old). Unlike the previous group of boys, this
lad was very friendly and curious. I (Mikaela) took the chance to practice a
bit of Portuguese and found out he has two sisters and goes to school to learn
English. He happily posed for our cameras and was like a little Tarzan model as
he climbed the rails of the pier and later arm wrestled with Elliott.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">A little later a man came over and started
talking such fluent English to us that we thought he was from England despite
looking like a local Mozambican. We quickly realised this must be Harry Potter,
the man we should contact if we had any issues on the island. It was great to
put a face to the name and the name Harry Potter now has a new meaning beyond
that of the wizard boy. We've agreed he's by far the coolest guy on the island.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We'd been so consumed in conversation with
Harry Potter, that we nearly missed the beautiful sunset. As the darkness
descended on the island we returned to our hotel.</span></div>
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<!--EndFragment-->principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-40079114158284081252014-06-08T22:08:00.003-07:002014-06-08T22:08:49.283-07:00Five go to Ilha<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
On the Saturday
morning, everyone got up nice and early for the trip to Ilha. We had
a chance to say goodbye to Alex and Miriam before they headed back to
Berlin. It's strange to think we may never see them again but none
the less, it was a pleasure to be in their company for the 10 days we
had with them. Momadi gave us a lift to where the Dhow departs. We
sailed under our branded sail, as we set for Ilha. The trip took
about two hours and was a nice experience! Mikaela also got some
attention from a fellow passenger. </div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
As we arrived, there was already
an apparent contrast with Mossuril! There was the sound of builders
drilling away, people on scooters driving past and a hotel that
casually has a swimming pool at the front. We instantly found the
nearest cash machine and emptied it dry. The second goal was to find
our hotel, 'Moohelelira'. We found out very quickly, and realised
what Alex meant about people being more 'savvy' over here. We had
various kids offering us a guided tour, or just helping us with
navigation. We finally found the hotel, with a boy who followed us
the whole way (I think he wanted to be paid). The hotel was luxury!
There was a flushing toilet, running water and even a huge fan right
next to the bed. We got settled in to the hotel pretty quickly and
then headed off for a wander. Very first impression; this place is a
lot richer than Mossuril. There was also lots of white people kicking
about, which we didn't expect. It seemed as Alex said; a very
touristy place. There was still glimpses of poverty, with abandoned
buildings, post-war streets and an area full of mud huts packed
together. We were very quickly approached again by two boys, who
really wanted a photo taken, then followed us for quite a while. We
saw a lot of beautiful buildings, that were abandoned. The hospital
was very grand and looked like a building that used to be in it's
prime. However, half of it is now abandoned and wrecked, with only a
small part near the back still active. After a small venture we found
the three bamboo restaurants that Alex advised us about and went to
the one in the middle. We all had chicken and chips, which felt like
heaven. After a relaxed meal, we went for another wander and took
lots of photos. We also found Ruby's, the youth hostel, and talked to
them about painting the mural for the following day. As it got
darker, we headed to the pier, just next to our hotel, and watched
the sunset.
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
It felt like a totally
different world compared to Mossuril. We even saw a few people with
iPads and smart phones. It was bizarre to think Mossuril is literally
a few miles away. We also noticed that the behaviour of people was
completely different. If children approached us in Mossuril, it was
through genuine interest and curiosity and there was also a sense of
community there. However, in Ilha, every kid who has approached us,
has asked for money, a photo or just followed us and tried to get our
attention. It's amazing to see the difference in social behaviour. It
also helped us understand the purpose of helping Mossuril, a bit
clearer. It is one thing to compare the UK to Mossuril, but Ilha is
just across the water and has a much better way of life. </div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
As we
pondered this realisation, we headed back to the hotel and had a long
awaited shower. It was even hot water, which I didn't think I would
see until we were back home. We went to a restaurant called, Anchora
D'Ouro, for dinner. It is literally across the road from the hotel
and overlooks the church. The food was just mind blowing. Our first
day in Ilha has given us a breather and let us step back and look at
the bigger picture. It also let us chat about our experiences so far
and our plans for the next two weeks. It has definitely let us
recharge our batteries but made us a little home sick.; Sunset
Boulevard.</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
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<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-33673922117696389252014-06-07T22:49:00.002-07:002014-06-07T22:49:42.194-07:00Goodbye . .
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Leaving our five students behind still
sleeping, we departed Mossuril early on Friday morning, as the cock was crowing
and the first shift for school was assembling in the center of the village.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We were accompanied by Mora the dog, and
three of the staff from Sunset, who helped us with our bags, as we made our way
to the ramp of slaves – the ancient stone gangway leading down to steps and
then the beach, where our Dhow was moored. Thousands of people left Mossuril
this way - bound for Asia, and other destinations, and a life of slavery.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The light on the beach was extraordinary as
we waited for everyone to congregate for the 7am sail, it was cool and very
still. I was skeptical that our luggage would fit on the Dhow, but what looks
like a small boat in the distance, is actually a big sturdy wooden craft, with
a huge curving sail, that takes enormous strength to hoist.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We waded out, and boarded, and we were off,
on the first stage of our journey home – we were bound for Ilha de Mozambique,
eight kilometres away, where we would stay one night, and then travel by road
to Nampula airport the next day.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The sail was raised revealing the
butterfly, and we made slow progress out into the bay. It quickly became
apparent that there was no wind, so after deliberating for a bit, the eight man
crew got the oars out, and started to row us further out into the bay, trying
to catch a stream of wind. What happened next will forever remain a special
moment and memory – they started to sing - not just any singing - beautiful
lilting Macuan songs, and led by Capitano Louis, they created harmonies to row
in unison.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Although, I’m told this happens a lot, I
felt very lucky to have heard them.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">However, it was all to no avail, as after
about an hour of singing and rowing, they decided it would take hours more to
reach the island, and moored the boat on a beach, where we all got off, leaving
our luggage on board in the hands of James, one of the staff who accompanied
us, to drift towards the island in its own time.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We on the other hand, boarded the back of a
truck, with around twenty locals – men, women, children, babies, the Dhow
Captain and all their provisions – two huge sacks of bananas, fish and
pumpkins. We drove to Ilha over a four kilometre bridge, passing our luggage on
the way.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Once we settled in a small hotel beside the
Dhow mooring, we waited for our luggage to arrive, which it did, accompanied by
James, who promptly re-boarded <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and
sailed back to Mossuril – this time with a little more wind.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The Island is a special place, the former
capital and a UNESCO World Heritage site, it has a long history steeped in
Portuguese colonial rule and the East Africa slave trade – it was the first
place Vasco de Gama landed in 1498. Now it is a lively Island City - ruined
palaces, fountains and squares, bleached by the sun, but not enough to hide the
ghost signs and colours of an ancient past.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Hand painted typography is everywhere here.
The letterforms bold and straight or, a kind of handwriting which I’ve never
seen before. Behind the crumbling facades are really nicely designed interiors
for small hotels, cafes and restaurants – there is a smattering of tourists and
some backpackers supplementing the busy local trade. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Saturday morning saw us up early again,
this time to catch a mini bus to Nampula and the flight home. When we arrived
in Mozambique, and went into Nampula to get some money from the Bank, the city
felt like a crazy African Wild West Frontier town – now it felt familiar, and
not nearly so crazy.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Before we left the island, we had time to
sit by the Dhow mooring and eat breakfast, watching the first early boats come
in, their passengers wading to land with things to sell in the market balanced
on their heads. Our five students are coming to Ilha today for a day off – so
we watched to see if we could catch a glimpse of the butterfly boat bringing
them over in the wind.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We have had a remarkable time here – we
have done so much, learned so much, and met kind, warm people, who smile a lot.
I hope we can continue with what we started here in as many ways as we can. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">As we begin our descent into Johannesburg,
there is only one thing left for me to say –</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Goodbye Mozambique for now, thank you – after
all the months of planning, it was a real pleasure to finally meet you . . .</span></div>
principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-52132073007404115842014-06-05T11:36:00.001-07:002014-06-05T11:36:10.500-07:00Lisa De Teran - Founder and Director of the Teran Foundation says . . .
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">It is seven thirty and we have just
finished supper: spaghetti bolognaise and aubergine fritters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shades of Italy spilling into Mossuril. There
is a half moon tonight so it was light enough to see our way as Iain and I
walked through the bush to town. Iain had some photos to take on his last
evening here. Tomorrow we will sail to Mozambique Island and the next day we
will brave the main road to Nampula Airport. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">These are Edinburgh Napier days. Five
students, and two tutors all gracing this little part of the outback on the
edge of the Indian Ocean. Mossuril, despite being a `District capital is a
sleepy little seaside town so small it can hardly be called a town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because not a lot happens here, the mere
arrival of seven foreigners caused quite a sensation. Add to that, when the
visitors started painting butterfly murals around town, the sense of wonder
became boundless.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Having lived here now for eleven years, it
has been a treat to see both the delight<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>of the local people and the sense of achievement as Ross, Jacob, Elliot,
Sarah and Mikaela trek in and out of the ‘town center’ with their buckets of
paints like a troupe of conjurors making magic butterflies out of nothing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">A lot has been achieved since Edinburgh Napier
hit town, but I still need to get to know each of the students better. Next
week we will be working on projects such as an eco-marquee and a cloth map, and
that will be a chance to work more closely with them. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Yesterday one of the villagers said that
the Napier visit had lifted `Mossuril out of obscurity; as though the butterfly
was physically lifting the local people up into the air. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Every day Myrna blogs. It has been
wonderful being around Myrna, as she throws out
stunning new ideas about what more we can transform here to further enhance the
film festival-to-be . We are marketing this LIFE film festival as the one at
the end of the road: the film festival for the really intrepid movie lovers. It
takes courage to come this far, and I am very pleased and grateful that Edinburgh
Napier has made the journey.</span></div>
principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-11515385858200325032014-06-05T10:20:00.002-07:002014-06-05T10:24:56.863-07:00Alex MacBeth, Director of the Mossuril Film Festival & Journalist says . . .<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">When an old family friend got in touch a year ago <br />
to see if her department at Edinburgh Napier University could help <br />
develop a visual identity for the Mossuril Film Festival, a project of <br />
which I am a founding member, we were naturally delighted. Beyond the <br />
good reputation of the University, I personally was delighted that a <br />
graphics department in Edinburgh was looking to develop a relationship <br />
with a civil society organisation in Africa.<br />
<br />
At first the collaboration produced posters, flyers and a visual <br />
identity for a film festival and a soap cooperative. The idea was to <br />
show that graphics can be applied to portray positive stories, not just <br />
the usual derogatory images of African nations that appear in the <br />
foreign sections of many newspapers. The images created by the students <br />
matched the will and enthusiasm of a team of people I, and my colleagues <br />
had begun to work with on the ground in Mozambique, and the project soon <br />
began to attract the attention of foreign and domestic funders.<br />
<br />
The graphics were working, operating side-by-side on the Internet with <br />
the continuous flow from the prophets of doom. Then the students, <br />
together with two tutors, applied and got funding to come to <br />
Mozambique. All that remained was to demystify the whole logistics <br />
process. After all, the class was planning to travel to Africa and the <br />
old clichés returned to haunt everyone.<br />
<br />
Africa? Would it be safe? Could students spend time in a rural area, <br />
working with local people to build brands, without clear and present <br />
dangers? A quick search on Google of Mozambique threw up phrases like <br />
'former civil war', 'road issues' and 'occasional kidnappings'. As if a <br />
tourist in Japan might decide to avoid the UK based on Google searches <br />
throwing up 'Oliver Cromwell' and 'clogged M25'.<br />
<br />
Bad things do of course occur to unlucky people in Mozambique, just like <br />
they do in London, New York, Hong Kong or Glasgow. But bad things that <br />
happen in Mozambique tend to be exaggerated because it is easy for <br />
journalists to do so. It is easy to defame a country that once had a <br />
conflict. If a car is hijacked in South Africa, it hardly makes the <br />
news, so regular are armed assaults on the road. Whereas in Mozambique <br />
children throwing stones at a tree can be reported as 'imminent civil war'.<br />
<br />
This is where Edinburgh Napier's contribution is key. Mozambique has 2,500 <br />
kilometres of virgin coast, 2,450 of which are accessible without <br />
danger. The people are friendly, open and welcoming. While disturbances <br />
have occurred on a 50 kilometres stretch of the 2,000+ North-South road, <br />
the way they are reported suggests the whole of Mozambique is in <br />
turmoil. Which again, is completely wrong. This is not a negligent or <br />
defensive attitude. It is simply the truth. I have travelled around the <br />
north of the country on-and-off in the last six months and I have not <br />
seen a single sign of war or armed conflict, apart from online in the <br />
foreign press.<br />
<br />
But I don't want to get bogged down with correcting the image of <br />
Mozambique abroad. I think five students from Napier have done that far <br />
better than I ever could. The images and activities shown in the blog <br />
portray a calm, inviting, friendly and colourful landscape - Macua <br />
society. Many local Mozambican Macua students are well aware of these <br />
attributes and are equally frustrated by foreign claims of domestic <br />
disturbances generated by desperate freelance journalists.<br />
<br />
The marketing skills local schoolchildren are learning working together <br />
with Napier students - painting, graphics and creating dynamic visual <br />
identities for a project and a place - will not only serve them <br />
individually, it will help them all further illustrate the gems and joys <br />
of Mozambique and their local environment. Through its work with the <br />
festival, Edinburgh Napier is helping build a cultural institution that will <br />
hopefully serve a district of 130,000 people for generations to come. <br />
Bob Dylan said 'How I'd like to be in Mozambique' but no one knows if he <br />
ever went. Five students and two tutors from Edinburgh Napier University <br />
followed his call and have shown that the times, they are a changing.</span></span>principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236634143826020809.post-80395543745403792752014-06-05T09:48:00.001-07:002014-06-10T09:28:36.547-07:00Frankie, who has been here for nearly four months says . .<style>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Franklin Gothic Book";">I
was quoted earlier this week as having said that Mossuril is “The easiest
difficult place to live.” which is quite true. Sometimes there isn’t enough
water and you must forsake your daily shower, sometimes the power goes out in
the evening leaving you in the darkness to scrabble around for torches and
candles, sometimes Mora, the sunset dog, runs off with your football mid
kick-about looking very pleased with herself. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Franklin Gothic Book";">These
are all minor hardships that I have had to contend with in the three months I
have spent here, but they are not the things I will remember my time in
Mozambique for.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Franklin Gothic Book";">I
have had the privilege of spending the last quarter of a year in a beautiful
country where I have had so many wonderful experiences that I never thought I
would have in my life. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Franklin Gothic Book";">I
have owned a motorbike. A nice blue one, which has given me the freedom to
explore Mossuril and its surroundings, such as the beautiful beaches at Chokas
with their white sand and cheese toast serving restaurants - they are well
worth a visit, and even make the 11-kilometre, handle bar clenching drive there
seem worthwhile. </span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Franklin Gothic Book";"></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Franklin Gothic Book";">I have organised a football tournament for under 14's - who previously were not allowed to play with the older kids.<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Franklin Gothic Book";">I
have eaten local delicacies, such as rice and beans, Matapa siri-siri, which is
seaweed that grows at the base of the Mangrove, served with rice. I have also
sampled goat, which was just like lamb and was served with rice. My favorite
thing I have eaten in Mozambique though was a delicious curry made of lentils
and chic-peas. It came with rice.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Franklin Gothic Book";">I
have been able to swim in the Indian Ocean, on a deserted beach from which it
is possible to watch the most stunning sunset. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Franklin Gothic Book";">Being here has also given me the chance to get to know my godmother Lisa. Before I left to come here I confided in my mother that I was nervous about what was to come to which she replied "Don't be ridiculous, Lisa will look after you." Never have truer words been spoken. I am constantly amazed by the energy that Lisa is able to channel into making sure that the work she and her foundation do here gets completed, she would put the most hardworking workaholics to shame, and she can build a damn fine wall when the mood takes her.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Franklin Gothic Book";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Franklin Gothic Book";">I
will miss Mossuril when I return home tomorrow. I will miss the way that time
seems to flow both quickly and slowly, so that each day seems to rush by, whilst
the weeks themselves drift at a far more relaxed pace. I will miss the
atmosphere in Mossuril, where you are separate from the rest of the world and
its going on’s. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Franklin Gothic Book";">I
have loved being here and I would love to return again one day to see what has
become of my little blue motorbike and Mora the dog.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
principal skinnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01417527113261021122noreply@blogger.com0